First published in 1978 by Granada Publishing as a follow up to his popular 'Hard Rock', Ken Wilson's 'Classic Rock - Great British Rock Climbs' (ISBN 1-898573-11-5) is a classic in many ways. Like it or loath it, it spawned a generation of tick-list or compendium publications, from others in the same style and format (Extreme Rock, Cold Climbs, Classic Walks), through to tick-lists covering the weird and wonderful.

The ever hungry hoards lapped up the potential to travel the length and breadth of this country to pit their wits and skills against these routes. The environmental damage of such chases can and have been debated at length, as have the missed opportunities,as climbers have focused on classic rock routes and missed out on potentially as good neighbouring lines on the same crag.
However Mr Wilson (for we should be so formal) has always been vocal in his worry (necessary or not - you decide) about traditions, trends and ethics in climbing over the many years. If there were to be nominations for the climbing voice of warning, his would be an unopposed election. Unlike some, he has hung his colours firmly up the mast and supported his publications to the full. This guide supports them too.

Anyway... the ethical excuses for promoting the chase are long and complicated like most things in climbing, so we move on...

Eighty of Britain's finest climbs are collated and detailed, covering a wide variety of routes and terrain from gullies to sea cliffs, roadside crag lines to outcrop stunners and long mountain lines up steep and improbable looking faces.
The majority of routes lie in the Diff - Hard Severe terrain, however some of the route grades are now VS in standard and are consequently a challenge to many climbers. This is especially so with those routes in the mountains and more specifically those in Scotland. Being out of the way by a good 2 to 3 hours walk-in, with also the rain and midges, makes for a sporting contest that will never be won with expensive waterproofs or cams. Determination, resolve and luck are your best armour in battles with such classics as The Chasm, Clachaig Gully, Squareface and Mitre Ridge.

However enough of the war stories, what about the rest of this guide? Well it is not going to be an appraisal of every route (buy the book if you want that) but merely a taster of what is on offer out there in the different areas of Britain. How was the choice made? Well purely through random thoughts. No logic at all - honest!

Scotland
Mitre Ridge: Cumming/Crofton Route. Severe 180m - 5 hour walk-in. 5 hour walk out.
If you want remote from help...
Ardverikie Wall, Binnein Shuas. HS 180m - A climb which has nearly every conceivable climbing move on it.
Cioch Nose, Sgurr a Chaorachain. VD 150m - Beautiful sea views and a route that certainly looks harder than it is.
Cuillin Ridge, Isle of Skye. VD 6miles - Little needs to be said about this one, does it?

Lake District
Troutdale Pinnacle, Black Crag. Severe 120m - That stretch for the final hold. Excellent.
Little Chamonix, Shepherds Crag. VD 60m. Once climbed in roller skates and boxing gloves! The final pitch is a stunner.
Bracket and Slab, Gimmer Crag. Severe 100m - A very photogenic route.
Bowfell Buttress, Bowfell. Diff 110m - Superb night-time views from a bivvy ledge half way up!
Napes Needle, Great Gable. HS 18m - The history, the atmosphere, the views, the polished holds, the awkward decent.

Wales
The Cracks, Dinas Mot. HS>VS 100m - One large bit of rock in a superb valley
Flying Buttress, Dinas Cromlech. Diff 100m - Said to be of Alpine character? Well you have to queue and it has Gendarmes.
Hope, Idwal Slabs. VD 150m - If you want to climb polished slabs - this is your one!

Peak
Sail Buttress, Birchen Edge. Severe 15m - A great 'one move wonder'.
April Crack, Stanage Edge. HS 19m - Good technique necessary, otherwise it gets a bit messy.

South-West
The Devil's Slide, Lundy. HS 130m - John Cleare's picture of the slide from the near headland needs no Sirens to call you there.
Demo Route, Sennen. HS 27m - The overhang move is sensational for the grade.

So there you go.
Hopefully the least you can do is have a read of the book. The most..? Climb them of course!
And remember, climbing with either a steady, strong partner or a Mountaineering Instructor is the best way of stacking the odds of success in your favour, for they can be long odds!

Enjoy